Leather Terms
Antique- Leather that varies in color that gives it an aged/distressed look. Sometimes the grain has been buffed to add to this appearance. Popular option for those making traditional crafts or want their projects to have a more rustic look.
Brain Tanned- One of the oldest tanning methods. The traditional method is done entirely by hand with no chemicals or machinery used. Hides are tanned using the oils and enzymes in the animals brains. Once tanned the skins are stretched and smoked to give them color, water repellency, and their distinct smoky smell. This is a long process so these hides cost much more than commercially tanned hides. Commercial options are available that give a similar look but are more affordable.
Buckskin- Although many assume this only applies to deer, the term can be used to describe a variety of hide types. Mostly it is used to describe skins that have been tanned to be soft and pliable for garment use. It also applies to a certain type of leather design (Buckskin clothing).
Buffed Leather- Hides that have been lightly sanded giving them a matte finish. It does remove some of the natural wrinkles, etc., from the surface. However, the grain has not been removed so the hide retains its strength.
Chrome Tan- A tanning process that uses chromium salts. It produces a soft, pliable leather perfect for garments, upholstery, etc. Today this is the most commonly used tanning method.
Drum Dyed- Most commonly used procedure to color leather. Hides are immersed in dye and tumbled in large drums allowing the color to penetrate the grain and leather fibres.
Embossed Leather- These hides are put into a large press or roller that imprints a pattern or design into the grain. Common patterns include alligator, snake, or other patterns to mimic other animal hides to to add texture to hides for use in gloves, etc.
Finished Leather- Finished hides have had a top coat added to cover any imperfections, add color, or improve water repellency. The finish may mask the natural grain characteristics of the leather. Commonly used on upholstery leather and high end shoes, handbags, etc.
Flesh Side- The inner most side of the hide that would be against the animal's muscle. This side will have a suede finish.
Full Grain Leather- Skins where the outermost layer has not been altered or corrected, with only the hair/fur removed.
Grain- The outer part of a hide that contains all its natural characteristics like wrinkles, pores, range marks, etc.
Nubuck Leather- Hides that have been lightly buffed or sanded to give them a smooth nap. They still have the grain but not any of the natural pebble, etc.
Oil Tanned Leather- There are two different variations of this tanning method. For many garment leathers, the tanning process includes using assorted fish oils in the tanning solution. This creates a very soft leather with a smooth buttery feel. When used on heavier hides like cow, it is a method where hides are chrome tanned then oils, waxes, etc., are added. This makes these hides more water repellant, pliable, and gives them a nice supple feel.
Pull Up- A term used to describe the behaviour of leather that has been treated with oils, waxes and dyes to the point that when it is stretched, the finish becomes lighter in those stretched areas.
Rawhide- Hides that have not been tanned but only preserved to avoid it rotting. They are fleshed and have the hair removed. They are then dried making them hard. When soaked in water they become pliable and will tighten and get firm again once dried. Popular for use as drum heads, parfleche, braiding, binding, etc.
Split Leather- The bottom portion of a hide once the top grain section has been removed. It will have a suede like finish on both sides. Good, lower cost alternative to grain leather for many applications. Popular for traditional crafts like moccasins, buckskin clothing, pouches, etc.
Temper/Hand- Used to describe the feel and pliability of leather. Ranges from supple to firm with variations in between.
Vegetable Tan- Also called veg tan, this method uses a combination of plant and tree bark to tan the hides. Most commonly used to carve, stamp, tool, etc. Can be wet molded to keep its shape once dry and dyed, oil to the desired color. Used for wallets, belts, holters, etc.